My Madeira Yoga Retreat: A Memoir
Hi! I’m Mia, Social and Content Exec at Adventure Yogi.
In November, I joined our yoga retreat in Madeira. It’s our most popular yoga holiday, and we visit almost every month of the year. With warm weather year round, stunning hikes, and the chance for sea swims, it’s easy to see why it’s so popular. The retreat is a week long and based in central Funchal, with two guided hikes, twice-daily yoga, and optional excursions.
I’ll admit, I didn’t know much about Madeira before visiting, and I was genuinely so pleasantly surprised by it.
It’s a 4 hour flight from London to Funchal. But when you step off the plane, it feels like you’ve travelled to the other side of the world. Even the airport is surrounded by dramatic scenery – lush, green mountains, and a runway that runs alongside the ocean. Before I left, a friend said, “Isn’t Madeira known as the Hawaii of Europe?” and after a week there, I’d say the title is very well deserved.
After a short 20-minute taxi ride from the airport, I arrived at our venue.
Our Madeira Yoga Retreat Venue
When you arrive at the venue, you’re greeted by the lovely yoga teachers – for me, this was Cristiano and Matilde – which immediately makes you feel welcome.
Our venue is a beautiful old quinta that’s been with the same family for centuries. It’s a grand house with traditional features, big rooms, and a slightly old-fashioned charm that makes it feel timeless. There are two large living rooms, an indoor dining room, and an outdoor dining patio, which is definitely a highlight. Upstairs, a big central landing is surrounded by the bedrooms, giving the house a nice airy feel.
The quinta sits on a vineyard, surrounded by gorgeous gardens. There are tropical flowers, fruit trees, a peaceful pond… the gardens are really something else. The yoga shala is right next to them, so every morning and evening you pass through on your way to practice. There’s also a swimming pool overlooking the gardens, which is the perfect spot to relax or go for a dip. Tour our Madeira venue here!
It’s about a 15–20 minute walk into Funchal town. Madeira is pretty hilly, so it’s downhill into town and a steep climb back up – which honestly felt like a mini workout, but I enjoyed the sense of accomplishment. If that’s not your thing, a Bolt will set you back for just a few euros.
My room was tucked around the back of the house. It was spacious, with wooden features, and a lovely view of the sea – the sunrises were to die for. Some of the other rooms overlook Funchal Bay, including two that share a big terrace. One guest jokingly called the biggest room “the ballroom”, which is no exaggeration!
On our first evening, we had a welcome session. A relaxed introduction to the teachers, the yoga, and the lovely group I’d be spending the week with – a perfect start to the retreat.
The main event: The Yoga
As I mentioned, the teachers when I visited were Cristiano and Matilde. They’re both from Madeira and completely passionate about yoga, it’s obvious the moment you meet them.
They usually split the classes, with one teaching the morning and the other the evening, though sometimes they teach together. They complement each other so well. Matilde’s style is a bit faster paced. She generally led the energising morning classes, while Cristiano taught the slower, more grounding evening sessions. I was so impressed by how much they know about yoga and anatomy, and they always explained why we were doing each pose. You can tell they’re absolutely consumed by yoga in the best way, this is their passion.
Each morning class had a different focus, so by the end of the week we got a really well-rounded practice. Hips, shoulders and chest, twists, forward and back bends, balance and gravity, inversions and arm balances, and even some Ashtanga Vinyasa (Cristiano and Matilde’s personal practice). The retreat had guests of all experience levels, and they were super attentive, making sure everyone felt supported.
It’s crazy how much improvement you can see in just a week, doing yoga twice a day. I felt stronger, more flexible, and less achy. Myself, and many other guests, even achieved a headstand by day four (albeit assisted) – something none of us expected! You’ll be surprised by what you can do when you’re guided by teachers like Cristiano and Matilde.
Nourishing and Light: The Food
What else is essential for a successful yoga practice? Delicious, nourishing food.
The chef on my retreat was Carla, who is also Portuguese and often cooks on our Madeira retreats. Her food was absolutely incredible! I’ve genuinely thought about it most days since, and even tried to recreate a few of the meals at home.
Everything was vegetarian, and mostly plant-based. For me, it was honestly perfect. Breakfast was filling but healthy – a self-serve spread of fresh fruits, bread with delicious houmous and homemade spreads, roasted vegetables, overnight oats, and Carla’s famous cheesy eggs (to die for!). It’s exactly what you need after a morning yoga class and a day full of activity. Energising, but not heavy.
If you’re worried about only eating vegetarian food, you can always grab lunch in Funchal for your meat or fish fix. But honestly, the food at the retreat is perfect as it is. We stick to vegetarian meals on all of our retreats because it aligns with a traditional yoga diet.
Dinner each evening was a different plant-based delight. Curries, risottos, and a roasted cauliflower that quickly became a favourite. Some dishes pushed guests to try things they wouldn’t normally, but everyone was pleasantly surprised. The meals left me satisfied but never uncomfortably full, just light, energised, and ready for the next day of yoga. I genuinely wish I could hire Carla as my personal chef so I could feel like that all the time!
And of course, no day would be complete without dessert. Every evening we had a sugar-free treat, made with natural sweeteners like coconut sugar or dates. You got that sweet fix without the nasties.
What Activities Do We Do on Our Madeira Yoga Retreat?
It’s worth nothing that everything on our retreats is optional, you can do as much or as little as you like. The hikes, the excursions, and even the yoga – if you aren’t feeling it, that’s absolutely fine. That being said, I kept myself pretty busy, to experience as much of the island as possible.
Walking Tour of Funchal
On the first day, Matilde took us on a casual walking tour of Funchal. It was a perfect way to get to know the group, find our bearings, and explore the city. Funchal has a mix of modern streets full of shops and restaurants, classic narrow cobbled streets, and a charming old town. The central area is buzzing, but it’s all right on the ocean, which makes it feel open and fresh.
Madeira’s Notorious Hikes
On this retreat, there are two hikes, led by a lovely local guide, who was friendly, knowledgeable, and a lovely person to chat with along the way. We were picked up in a minibus and driven to the start point, which is also a lovely way to see more of the island.
Our first hike was along the levadas. It’s an 8km walk, and I’d say the difficulty is moderate, but everyone in our mixed-experience group managed it without any issues. The levadas are a unique drainage system built in the 15th century. They were originally designed to transport goods, now also to prevent flooding and generate energy.
The hike starts off flat, following the levadas, and is a great way to experience Madeira’s microclimates. The weather in the mountains was very different from the sunshine down in Funchal – it was cold! Along the way, we passed lots of mini waterfalls, eventually reaching the 25 Fountains waterfall. You can swim here, but none of us were brave enough, the water would have been freezing. After the waterfall, we continued back down the mountain through rainforest-like trails full of lush greenery. About two-thirds of the way, there’s a café. We had our own packed lunch prepared by Carla, but the café is perfect for a hot drink or a pastel de nata if you fancy it.
After the café, we continued along the trail through an 800m tunnel that takes you from the north side to the south side of the island. It’s pretty dark in there, but it’s one of the most popular routes in Madeira and absolutely incredible to experience. When you emerge on the south side, it really feels like you’ve stepped into a whole new place – the north side was colder and wet, and the south greeted us with clear skies and sunshine.
Our second hike quickly became the group’s favourite. We did the Vereda Do Larano to Boca do Risco hike, an 11km coastal walk with breathtaking views of both the ocean and the mountains. We were greeted by a beautiful rainbow when we stepped off the minibus, which felt like the perfect motivator to get going. The views were stunning, probably some of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen.
The hike started along narrow coastal footpaths, leading to a viewpoint where we stopped for lunch. After that, we continued onto a more mountainous section and reconnected with the levadas. This part was just as beautiful, open green valleys and dramatic landscapes that reminded me of Vietnam’s Ha Giang Loop – though I’ve never actually been!
After the hike, we had a quick stop in Machico, a charming little town just a short drive from Funchal. It was a nice chance to see a new town, explore, and grab a snack or drink.
Natural Pools
We also visited the Doca do Cavacas Natural Pools. This is included in the retreat, but if you’d rather not go, you can use the money elsewhere. These naturally formed pools are created by volcanic activity and coastal erosion. They’re a lovely middle ground between a swimming pool and the raw ocean. The water is crystal clear, you can see fish swimming around you, and lifeguards are on hand for safety. It’s also a perfect spot to sunbathe, listen to the waves, and just watch the world go by.
Boat Trip
A definite highlight for me was the boat trip. This is an optional excursion, but I would absolutely recommend it. It lasts about three hours and is advertised as a nature-watching trip. You’ll likely see sea creatures, but nothing is guaranteed. On our trip, we were lucky enough to spot a pod of pilot whales! I couldn’t believe it, I’ve never seen wild whales before, and honestly didn’t think I ever would. Later in the trip, the boat stops and you have the chance to jump in for a swim. I didn’t hesitate, I’m a complete water baby, and sea swimming is one of my favourite things in the world. The sea around Madeira has a unique colour. It’s a rich, deep blue that I feel I could probably recognise anywhere.
5 Things For Your Madeira Packing List
Interested in designing your yoga journey? Check out our retreat experience on Adventure Yogi. Your unforgettable New Year begins here.
1. Warm Clothes
In fact, bring clothes for every season. One of the magical things about Madeira is that you can experience all four seasons in one day. But it means you can be wearing a bikini in Funchal, and 15 minutes up the mountain you’ll be glad you packed gloves. A rain coat and warm layers will be your best friend on the hikes.
2. Mosquito Repellent
Given the tropical climate, there are some mosquitoes. Nothing too crazy, but if you’re prone to bites like I am, pack some repellent, some after-bite, and maybe long trousers or leggings for the evening.
3. Lunch Box and Water Bottle
The hikes are beautiful, but can leave you peckish. Our chef will provide a packed lunch, but having a lunchbox helps them massively. Plus, having water and a snack on hand means you can pause and enjoy the scenery instead of rushing.
4. Swimwear
Pack your swimwear, and have it with you at all times if you’re a water baby! Madeira is full of opportunities for swimming, whether it’s the natural pools, the waterfalls, or diving off the boat – you’ll be glad you have it.
5. Hiking Gear
You definitely don’t need all the gear to attend this retreat, but if you do have it, bring it. A sturdy backpack, walking boots if you have them – no worries if not, just wear comfortable, grippy trainers.
By the end of my week in Madeira, I felt so refreshed, stronger, and more flexible. Not just in my body, but in my mind too. Madeira completely exceeded my expectations, and the combination of yoga, beautiful food, incredible hikes, and magical moments (like seeing whales!) made it a week I’ll never forget. I have recommended it to all of my friends and family since returning, and I am itching to go back.
If you’re thinking about a retreat that balances relaxation, adventure, and connection, this one comes highly recommended.
If you want to visit yourself…